How To Choose The Right Brow Colour?

Written by: Rachael Bebe

Eyebrows. They’re one of those features that can completely transform your face, whether you’re aiming for bold and dramatic or soft and natural. 

Over the years, I’ve seen how a well-chosen brow colour can elevate a client’s entire look, while a poor choice can have the opposite effect. 

It’s not just about picking any old shade from a palette—it’s about understanding the intricate balance between your hair, skin tone, and the natural colour of your brows.

I’ll take you through how to choose the right brow colour, backed by my two decades of experience in the industry, as well as tried-and-tested tips to help you achieve a natural, polished finish. Let’s get straight into the details!

Let’s Get Straight to the Point

Choosing the right eyebrow shade is all about harmony with your hair and skin tone. Stick to your natural brow colour for a subtle, balanced look or go one shade darker for added definition. 

If you’re aiming for a more defined brow, just remember to blend the colour well for a natural finish. 

Key Factors for Choosing Your Eyebrow Shade

The Importance of Matching Your Brow Colour to Your Natural Brow Hair

Over the years, one of the most common mistakes I’ve seen in clients is choosing a brow colour based solely on their head hair, rather than their natural brow colour. 

While it might seem like a good idea to match the colour of your brows to your hair, it’s important to remember that most people’s brows are darker than their head hair.

I had a client once who was a natural blonde and, like many, decided to match her brows to her golden locks. She ended up with pale, almost invisible eyebrows that didn’t quite frame her face the way they should. 

When we went for a shade one or two tones darker than her hair, the difference was incredible. Her features were more defined, and she looked polished without the harsh contrast of overly dark brows.

powder brow tattoo

How Hair Colour Affects Your Brow Colour Selection

When choosing your eyebrow colour, it’s essential to take into account your hair colour. But you also want to avoid matching your brows exactly to your hair colour. Let’s break it down by hair shades:

  • Dark Brown or Black Hair: Many people with dark hair think they need to go for a black shade for their brows. However, a pure black can often look too harsh, especially on those with naturally thick brows. I suggest using a dark grey or cool-toned brown. These shades soften the intensity of black hair while still offering enough definition for your brows.
    For example, I’ve found that products like Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz in Ebony work wonders for people with raven-black hair. The cool undertones prevent the brows from looking too warm or “red” in tone, which can happen when you use a brow product that’s too dark.
  • Blondes: For blonde clients, I generally recommend going one to two shades darker than your hair. This ensures that the brows are visible but not overpowering.
    • For ashy blondes or platinum blondes, taupe is your best friend. It avoids the overly warm, orange hues that some blonde eyebrow pencils can have.
    • On the other hand, for golden or caramel blondes, you can experiment with shades that are warmer in tone, like golden blonde or light brown.
  • Red Hair: When it comes to red hair, I’ve found that auburn, copper, and caramel shades tend to work best. This way, the eyebrows won’t appear too harsh against the warmth of the hair.
    • A real-life example of this would be one of my clients, a natural redhead, who initially chose a very red eyebrow pencil. It didn’t look quite right, and we eventually settled on a medium brown with a hint of red. The result was much more natural and flattering.
  • Gray/Silver Hair: If you’re embracing your natural silver or gray hair, resist the urge to choose a grey eyebrow product. Grey brows can make your face look washed out. Instead, opt for soft taupe or soft brown tones that warm up your face without clashing with the coolness of your hair.

How to Match Your Eyebrow Colour to Your Skin Tone

Understanding Your Skin Undertones

Choosing the right eyebrow colour also involves understanding your skin tone and undertone. I always recommend my clients first assess whether they have cool, warm, or neutral undertones before picking their brow colour.

  • Cool Undertones: If your skin has pink, red, or blue hues, go for ashy or cooler browns. Shades like soft taupe, dark brown, and ash blonde are great choices. The cool tones won’t clash with your skin, creating a natural-looking finish. Avoid any warm or reddish browns, as these can make the brows look unnatural and out of place.
  • Warm Undertones: If your skin has yellow, golden, or peach hues, your brows should complement that warmth. Caramel, rich chocolate brown, or honey blonde are perfect shades for warm undertones. These shades enhance the natural warmth of your complexion without being too overpowering.
  • Neutral Undertones: If you have neutral undertones, lucky you—you can experiment with both warm and cool shades! Go for a neutral brown or a soft brown for a balanced, natural look.

Eyebrow Product Types and Application Tips

Eyebrow Pencils – Precision and Control

Eyebrow pencils are one of the most versatile tools for achieving a natural yet defined brow. In my experience, pencils are perfect for creating fine, hair-like strokes, which is especially helpful when you’re filling in sparse areas.

  • Application Tip: Always use light, feathery strokes to mimic your natural brow hairs. Start by outlining the bottom of your brow and build the colour up gradually to avoid a harsh, blocky look.
  • Considerations: Overdoing the application can result in a waxy finish, so take your time and build up gradually. Be sure to use a sharp pencil for precise application.

Eyebrow Powder – Soft, Natural Finish

Eyebrow powders are a fantastic option if you’re aiming for a softer, more natural look. The powder tends to blend more easily into the brow hairs and provides a less defined, more textured finish.

  • Application Tip: I like to use an angled brush for more control and to mimic the natural direction of the brow hairs. Build up the colour as needed, focusing on the sparse areas.
  • Considerations: If you have oily skin, you might find that brow powders tend to wear off more quickly. It’s always a good idea to set your brows with a brow gel to lock everything in place.

Tinted Brow Gel – Hold and Definition

Brow gels are great for adding volume, holding hairs in place, and giving your brows a natural tint.

  • Application Tip: Simply swipe the spoolie through your brows, brushing them upwards for a fuller look. You can also use the gel to tint the skin underneath sparse areas for a fuller appearance.
  • Considerations: Be mindful not to use too much product, as brow gel can get flaky. Start with a light hand and build up as necessary.

Pomade – Bold and Defined Look

For a more defined, dramatic look, brow pomades are an excellent choice. They’re long-lasting and perfect for filling in sparse areas, creating bold brows.

  • Application Tip: Use an angled brush to apply the pomade. Work in light layers, building up the intensity gradually.
  • Considerations: This product can be a bit tricky for beginners, so if you’re new to it, I recommend starting with a small amount of product and practicing on a clean surface.

Microblade Pens – Natural Hair-Like Strokes

If you’re looking for realistic, hair-like strokes, microblade pens are your best bet. They work wonders for clients with sparse or thin brows.

  • Application Tip: Use the pen to create short, fine strokes in the direction of your natural brow growth. This will mimic the look of natural hairs and give your brows a fuller appearance.
  • Considerations: These pens are great for those who prefer a natural finish, but they require some practice for the best results.

temporary eyebrow tattoo

Choosing the Right Brow Colour Based on Desired Look

Subtle and Natural Brows

If you’re after a natural look, match your brow colour closely to your natural hair colour, or go a shade lighter for a more subtle effect. This creates a soft, effortless appearance, perfect for those who want to maintain a low-maintenance beauty routine.

Dramatic and Bold Eyebrows

For a bold, defined look, choose a colour one to two shades darker than your natural hair. This adds definition and drama, creating brows that truly stand out. Just make sure to keep it stylish—brows that are too dark can look harsh and out of place.

Absolutely! I’ll add a new section titled “Eyebrow Colour and Product Selection: A Handy Guide” that will focus on matching eyebrow products to your skin tone and hair colour, with a balanced use of bullet points and a table to guide readers.

Eyebrow Colour and Product Selection: A Handy Guide

When it comes to selecting the right eyebrow product, the colour isn’t the only consideration. The type of product you choose plays a significant role in how your brows will look. 

Whether you’re looking for precision, softness, or long-lasting results, understanding which product to use is just as important as choosing the right colour.

Eyebrow Product Types and Their Ideal Use

Different eyebrow products serve different purposes. Below is a guide to help you choose the right product based on your brow goals and needs.

  • Eyebrow Pencils: Great for precision and fine, hair-like strokes. Ideal for defining and filling sparse areas.
  • Eyebrow Powders: Best for a soft, natural look. These are easy to apply and work well for filling in gaps without harsh lines.
  • Eyebrow Gels: Best for shaping and setting brows in place. They’re ideal for creating fuller brows with a natural finish.
  • Brow Pomades: Perfect for a bold, defined look. These long-lasting products are ideal for those who need extra definition.
  • Eyebrow Tints: Great for those looking for a semi-permanent solution to enhance brow colour and fill in sparse areas.

Product Selection Based on Your Brow Colour and Hair Shade

Here’s a simple table to help you match your brow product with your natural hair and brow colour.

Hair Colour

Recommended Brow Colour

Recommended Product Type

Product Example

Black or Dark Brown Hair

Dark brown or cool-toned shades

Eyebrow Pencil, Pomade, Powder

Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz in Ebony, L’Oréal Paris Brow Stylist Definer in Black

Blonde Hair

Taupe, light brown, or ashy blonde

Eyebrow Pencil, Tinted Brow Gel

Elf Brow Pencil in Taupe, ABH Brow Wiz in Blonde

Red Hair

Auburn, warm brown with red tones

Eyebrow Powder, Pomade

L’Oréal Paris Faux Brow in Auburn, ABH Brow Wiz in Auburn

Gray or Silver Hair

Soft taupe, cool browns, or light brown

Brow Powder, Tinted Brow Gel

ABH Brow Powder Duo in Soft Brown, Maybelline Brow Precise in Blonde

Coloured Hair (Pink, Blue, Green)

Neutral brown or dark brown

Eyebrow Pencil, Powder

NYX Professional Makeup Micro Brow Pencil, Revlon ColorStay Brow Mousse

tattoo brow

Application Tips for Different Products

  • Eyebrow Pencil: Use small, light strokes to mimic hair growth. This creates a natural look while filling in sparse areas. Start at the arch and work towards the tail and the front of your brow.

  • Eyebrow Powder: Apply with an angled brush, building up colour slowly. Powder is perfect for filling in gaps and creating a softer, fuller look.

  • Eyebrow Gel: Use a spoolie to brush the gel through your brows, following the natural direction of hair growth. This helps keep hairs in place while adding a light tint.

  • Pomade: Using an angled brush, apply pomade in light, small strokes for a bold, defined brow. Pomades are highly pigmented, so use sparingly.

  • Eyebrow Tint: If you’re using a tint at home, be sure to apply it carefully. Start with less product and build up as needed. Remember to test the product first to avoid dark or uneven colouring.

By selecting the right product based on your hair colour and desired brow finish, you can ensure your brows always look flawless. Whether you’re looking for precision or a soft, natural look, this guide will help you make the perfect choice for your brows!

Professional and At-Home Eyebrow Colouring Options

Eyebrow Tinting – Low Maintenance, Full Brows

Eyebrow tinting is a semi-permanent solution for darker, fuller brows that require minimal effort. It’s great for anyone who prefers a low-maintenance routine but still wants a defined, polished look.

Henna Brows – For Natural Fuller Brows

Henna is perfect for creating a fuller brow while also tinting the skin beneath. This is great for people with sparse or patchy brows and can last up to six weeks.

Brow Lamination – Perfectly Shaped, Lifted Brows

Brow lamination can smooth out unruly brows and create a fuller, lifted look. It’s ideal for anyone looking to refine their brow shape without the commitment of a permanent solution.

Microblading – Semi-Permanent Brow Tattoo

Microblading is a semi-permanent solution where pigment is applied to the skin in fine, hair-like strokes. It’s a great option for those with sparse brows who want a natural, long-lasting solution.

Cosmetic Tattooing – Permanent Brow Solution

Cosmetic tattooing is the ultimate solution for those who want perfectly shaped brows without the daily effort. This technique creates natural-looking brows that can last for years.

Maintaining and Refining Your Brows

Regular Maintenance

Whether you’ve chosen a semi-permanent or a permanent brow solution, regular upkeep is key to keeping your brows looking fresh. I recommend tinting or laminating every 4-6 weeks.

Daily Brow Care

Use brow gels to set your brows and keep them in place. Regularly brushing and trimming stray hairs will help maintain the shape and fullness of your brows.

Post-Tinting Care

After tinting, avoid exposing your brows to harsh chemicals or sun to maintain the colour. Use a gentle brow serum to keep your brows nourished and looking great.

Choosing the right eyebrow colour might seem daunting at first, but with the right approach, it’s easy to find a shade that complements your natural features and personal style. Always consider your hair colour, skin tone, and desired look to achieve the perfect brow.

With over two decades of dedicated experience, Rachael Bebe stands as one of Melbourne's pioneering cosmetic tattoo artists. Since 2003, she has transformed thousands of lives through her expertise in eyebrow, eyeliner, and lip enhancement procedures. As one of Melbourne's first certified practitioners, Rachael has not only witnessed but actively shaped the evolution of cosmetic tattooing in Australia.

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